Check for roof damage

March 6th, 2011

Water Damage

Water leaks from ice and snow are caused by interior heat from the house. Water from ice melting on the roof is trapped and creates an ice dam on the roof, gutters and downspouts. The water then takes the path of least resistance under the roof system, or sideways and through flashings, which were not designed for to handle this kind of moisture. When this happens, interior water damage can occur.

Some of us have either heard of (our tried ourselves) using a regular snow shovel to remove excessive snow from the top of our homes to prevent roof damage. This technique, however, has some pretty obvious drawbacks, and can cause its own damage to shingles. Some contractors may suggest that rock salt or calcium chloride be used to melt the ice and snow. Unfortunately, this may also damage shingles. In fact, many shingle manufacturers warn against this, and it may void your warranty.

Repairing Existing Roof Damage
If you notice leaks or water marks on the walls or ceiling of your home, the damage is already done. Some roof repair operations are relatively inexpensive; nationally, the cost for asphalt shingle roof repair is about $575. When ice damage is extensive enough to warrant roof replacement, Americans pay an average of around $6,000 to install a new asphalt roof.
 

 

Getting your home ready for Spring!

February 19th, 2011
  • Replace your furnace filter
  • Clean the kitchen exhaust hood and air filter
  • Check your electrical system
  • Always have a multi-purpose fire extinguisher accessible.
  • Make sure the light bulbs in all your fixtures are the correct wattage
  • Review your fire escape plan with your family
  • Consider installing a lightning protection system on your home
  • Protect all your electrical appliances from power surges and lightning
  • Have a professional air conditioning contractor inspect and maintain your system as recommended by the manufacturer
  • Check for damage to your roof
  • Run through a severe-weather drill with your family
  • Repair all cracked, broken or uneven driveways and walks to help provide a level walking surface
  • Protect your home from sewer or drain back-up losses
  • Check all the fascia and trim for deterioration
  • Check your water heater
  • Check the shutoff valve at each plumbing fixture to make sure they function
  • Clean clothes dryer exhaust duct, damper, and space under the dryer
  • Replace all extension cords that have become brittle, worn or damaged
  • Inspect and clean dust from the covers of your smoke and carbon monoxide alarms

By taking just a few moments to review these items you will save you from costly reapirs later!

How to Cool Your House Without Air Conditioning

July 21st, 2010

Cut back the transfer of heat through the roof and walls. If the attic isn’t already insulated or is underinsulated, insulate your attic. This will give you the greatest change in comfort for the least amount of expense. Before you buy, see the Home Insulation Buying Guide. Weatherize your home to reduce the loss of conditioned air. Use caulk and weatherstripping to cut back on the transfer of air.

Install a foil radiant barrier in the attic. Staple it to the underside of the roof rafters, allowing an air space between the foil and the roof sheathing. Place staples about 3 inches apart. Position seams between sheets of foil centered on the rafters and seal the seams with caulk.

Install inexpensive heat-reflecting film on windows that face the sun. This will keep your house cooler and reduce glare and ultraviolet rays that damage furniture and floors. For hot climates, sun-control types are most effective, but be aware that they will reduce the amount of light that comes in through the windows. In climates where cold seasons are also a problem, choose a combination film (but do not apply it to south-facing windows if you want to benefit from the sun’s warmth during winter).

Reduce heat gain by pulling drapes or shades, and use shelters to prevent direct sunlight from streaming in through windows on the south- and west-facing sides of the house. Overhangs, patio overheads, latticework, awnings—all of these work well.

Plant now to provide shade in the future. trees, bushes, and vines can provide shade and cooling evaporation. Choose deciduous varieties if you want to allow the sunlight to warm the house during winter. Pay attention to the growth characteristics of any landscaping that you plant to be sure it will be appropriate for the need and will not block breezes.

Closely monitor the temperature both inside and out with an indoor/outdoor thermometer. When it is cooler outside, open up window and doors to ventilate. (Be sure your windows and doors have adequate screens to prevent an influx of bugs.) And arrange furniture and drapes so they don’t restrict airflow. If you have operable skylights or transom windows high on walls, open them to let out super-heated air and create convection currents.

Use portable fans or ceiling fans and the “Fan Only” setting on your heating system’s thermostat to keep the air moving. By doing so, you will feel comfortable in a room that is 2 or 3 degrees warmer than a still room. If your home has a whole-house fan, turn it on to extract warm air.

Humidity makes room air feel warmer, so reduce indoor humidity. Minimize mid-day washing and drying of clothes, showering, and cooking. When you must do these things, turn on ventilating fans to help extract warm, moist air, but be sure to turn them off when you’re finished so they don’t extract cooled air from the house. Also see our section on dehumidifiers.

Unless you absolutely need them, turn off incandescent lights and heat-generating appliances. When it’s time to cook, opt for the outdoor grill instead of the range.

If you try all of these measures but are still suffering from the heat, maybe it’s time to consider installing an air conditioner. See the section on room air conditioners for information on how to select an efficient, high-quality model.

 

Dealing with the Heat!

June 24th, 2010
  1. Stay out of direct sunlight, and avoid strenuous activities.
  2. Wear lightweight light colored loose-fitting clothing that permits sweat to evaporate.
  3. Drink plenty of liquids such as water or fruit and vegetable juices to replace fluids lost by perspiring.
  4. Avoid alcohol and beverages that have too much salt, since salt can complicate medical problems.
  5. Do not use salt tablets unless advised to do so by your doctor.
  6. Take frequent cool baths or showers; place cool wet towels on the body.
  7. Above all, take the heat seriously, and don’t ignore danger signs like nausea, dizziness and fatigue; seek medical help at once.

Even those who are accustomed to the heat may find that advancing years and the effects of medical conditions can lessen their ability to cope. Anyone who does not have air conditioning should make alternative plans for when the heat gets to be too much. A visit at a friend’s or relative’s house for a few hours or for a day or two in the hottest weather may be the simplest alternative.

Other alternatives could include –

  1. Visiting an air conditioned store or mall;
  2. Visiting the local public library – not only relief from the heat, but a good time to catch up on magazines or books;
  3. Spending part of the day at the local senior center, and having lunch there; and
  4. Keeping in touch with friends and relatives, so that they will be available to help if needed.

If you have a senior friend or relative who does not have air conditioning, check with them often, and be prepared to offer whatever alternatives they might accept. Even a drive in an air conditioned car and a lunch or snack at a fast food place might be a welcome break. For some, a few hours a day in air conditioning can mean the difference between staying well and becoming ill from the heat. Don’t overlook seniors with medical conditions who may have difficulty leaving home; it is especially important to check on them regularly

How to take care of your air conditioner

June 22nd, 2010

Sump Pump Maintenance

March 11th, 2010

Sump Pump Maintenance

People who have a sump pump in their home will tell you they could not do without one. Like many other home appliances, a sump pump requires maintenance. If you want to know how to clean and maintain your sump pump to ensure its long life, then you’ve come to the right place!

It is often recommended that you do not clean the sump pump yourself but leave that task to someone who is qualified. However, you can pour white vinegar through the unit which will help eliminate any build-up in the system. Sump pumps have screens or openings where the water enters the pump. These sometimes get clogged and require cleaning by a professional.

Some manufacturers recommend the sump pump be run and tested every two to three months and others recommend that a yearly cleaning program be completed before the rainy season hits. If you follow the maintenance guide given by the manufacturer, your sump pump should last a very long time.

Below are some tips regarding sump pump maintenance:

  • fill the sump pit with water to make sure the pump is working properly.
  • go outside to check that the pump is actually discharging water (sometimes the pump will run but it won’t pump any water out).
  • check that the operation of the float is not restricted.
  • clean the air hole in the discharge line.
  • listen for any strange noises coming from the motor.
  • replace the battery on the back-up sump pump every second or third year.

Advanced Sump Pump Maintenance

Sump Pump Maintenance Tasks
The main benefit of having a sump pump in your home is that it alleviates the worry of accidental water damage. As long as a sump pump is in good working order, you should feel well protected. That being said, there are several sump pump maintenance tasks that should be performed to ensure that the pump is able to effectively do its job.

After Heavy Rainfall
A build up of debris in your sump pump is one of the major causes of sump pump failure. It is important that you check your inlet suction screen to make sure that there is no blockage. This sump pump maintenance routine should be performed every few months and especially after heavy or persistent rainfall.

Check the Motor
Once annually, it is necessary to check on the effective operation of the sump pump’s motor by pouring water into the drain area of the pump. If the pump is working well, the motor will turn on just as the float rises with the water level. You should repeat this procedure for a few cycles. Keep track of when you last performed this task as it is a very important part of your sump pump maintenance program.

Check Float
Ensure that the float of your sump pump is able to freely move. If the float is obstructed, your pump may fail to start. This task does not have to be performed regularly, but you should get in the habit of doing it every few months.

Verify Oil Seal
If you spot an oily film on the surface of the water in your sump pump, verify the condition of the oil seal. The appearance of oil probably indicates a faulty oil seal which may cause the motor to burn out.

Visual Check
In general, a sump pump does not require extensive maintenance. Most homeowners find it beneficial to do a visual check on the pump every few months. Once annually, it is important that a more thorough sump pump maintenance routine be performed. On the rare occasion of persistent rainfall, your sump pump should be monitored more often to ensure its smooth operation.

Using Ice Melt

February 28th, 2010

1) Why should I use ice melt? ANS: Safety is the primary reason. Other reasons include damage prevention from heavy ice buildup and just plain convenience to keep traffic areas clean.

2) Why does ice melt contain chemicals other than salt? ANS: The added chemicals keep the ice melt from getting hard and adjust the minimum temperature at which the product works effectively.

3) Which ice melt product should I use? ANS: The customer is the best person to make that decision based on their unique needs. Cost, environmental friendliness, weather pattern and area where the ice melt is to be applied all play a role in the decision.

4) What are my ice melt choices? ANS: You have two choices; Urea or Salt (contains chloride). Urea is used in lawn fertilizers, but as an ice melt it is sold in much higher concentrations so do not buy the comment that it "will not burn your lawn." Salt can be Sodium Chloride (rock salt is 95 98.5% pure), Potassium Chloride, Magnesium Chloride and/or Calcium Chloride. The different ice melt brand names often mix these salts in patented blends along with the added chemicals.

5) What is the least expensive ice melt? ANS: Rock Salt is least expensive but many companies offer various "economical blends" that will work well on your driveway and will be friendlier to the environment.

6) Why is the ice melt minimum effective temperature (MET) important? ANS: If you live in a climate where sub zero temperatures rarely occur, you might be wasting money buying an ice melt that works down to -25 degrees F.

7) What are the ice melts "METs"? ANS: Potassium Chloride +25F, Urea +20F, Rock Salt +10F, Magnesium Chloride -22F and Calcium Chloride at -25F. However, with the additional chemicals many manufactures can vary these temperatures somewhat for their patented blends.

8) Is a fast acting ice melt product always better? ANS: No. In areas where slips and falls is a greater concern, a fast acting product may be your best choice. These products often require a greater frequency of application, which can increase cost and risk of damage.

9) Which ice melt products are safe? ANS: All products on the market are generally safe when used per instructions. Both urea and salt will burn a lawn and may irritate the bottom of your pet's paws. You should store the ice melt is a sealed area out of reach from pet's and children.

10) Do ice melts contain any form of poison? ANS: No. However, if ingested by a person or animal it is recommended that you contact your physician (or veterinarian).

11) Which ice melt products are better for the environment? ANS: Blends with less Chloride are better for the environment but will be more expensive, especially if you want them to work at the sub zero temperatures.

12) What other concerns for safety and property damage should I be aware when using ice melt? ANS: Exceeding the recommended usage and/or heavy traffic which moves the ice melt to areas not intended can damage concrete, carpet, floors, wood decks in addition to vegetation.

13) What can I do to protect vegetation from ice melt applications? ANS: Follow package instructions and use the environmentally friendly products (more expensive) where the vegetation is a concern.

14) What can I do to protect carpets/wood floors from ice melt traffic? ANS: Vacuum and/or wipe up with a damp sponge any residue tracked on to your carpet/wood floor. Use rubberized mats in areas of high traffic during bad weather.

15) What can I do to protect my wood deck? ANS: Ice melt salts can penetrate the wood pores and cause early degradation as it re crystallizes. Therefore, it is not the best product for a wood deck. Sand and/or matting are better solutions. Wood sealers do offer some protection.

16) What can I do to protect my concrete surfaces from ice melt damage? ANS: Ice melt usage will increase the number of freeze thaw cycles, which increase the risk of concrete scaling on the surface. Never use ice melt on concrete less than one year old. Clean off slush as soon as possible. Use of concrete sealers will help also.

17) Can I use ice melt on my roof? ANS: Although ice melt is one option for roofs it is often not the best option. Ice built up on roofs is caused by excess heat loss. Correcting the heat loss or installing heating elements to prevent the ice buildup is a better preventative measure. Consult a professional roofer for guidance when removing ice from a roof.

18) Can I use ice melt on my brick surface? ANS: Ice melt products are not recommended on these surfaces.

19) Can I use left over ice melt for other purposes such as a water softener? ANS: This is not recommended. Ice melt will keep for the next year usage, it is less suitable for other purposes and it will require more clean up of the brine tank in softeners.

20) How can I best make my ice melt purchase? ANS: Individuals needing less than 100 bags (50 lbs each) per year should consider their local hardware store or shopping market. When the usage is greater, consider using the Internet to research the available ice melt products based on your needs.

Why the Ice Dams??

February 24th, 2010

Why Do I have Ice Dams?

You may have noticed long icicles hanging from your gutters and not realize the significance of the damage that may be occurring behind them. Icicles are usually one of the first warning signs of possible ice dams on your roof. This article will explain what ice dams are, how they form and the best methods for removing them safely.

What is an Ice Dam?

An ice dam is a wall of ice that forms at the edge of the roof, usually at the gutters or soffit. When it forms the water then backs up behind the ice dam and creates a pool of water. This pool of water can leak into your home and cause damage to walls, ceilings, insulation, and other areas.

What Causes Ice Dams?

Ice dams are usually caused by heavy snowfall and improper ventilation in the attic. This causes warmer areas in your attic then the snow begins to melt, even when the outside temperature is well below freezing. When the accumulated snow on your roof starts melting it runs down your roof underneath the snow until it reaches a "colder" section like the soffits, valleys or in gutters then it begins to freeze again, this process of thawing and refreezing is what causes an ice dam. Cleaning the gutters on your home can help prevent ice dams from occurring as quickly but they can still occur if the conditions are right. The gutters will be just as cold as it is outside and in some cases, full of frozen debris. So even if you don't have a soffit for the water to refreeze in, the melted water will most likely refreeze when flowing into the gutters.

How Can I Remove an Existing Ice Dam?

Properly removing an ice dam can be quite dangerous if you don't know how. In the past some members of the media suggested hiring a contractor to pull the gutters off your home so the whole ice dam process would be solved. This suggestion was well intended but wrong. Contractors that started removing gutters caused significant damage to roofing and guttering systems, then when the snow melted it dropped next to the homes foundation and caused the basements to flood.

How to get your home ready for the Spring

February 20th, 2010

Step 1
Open up your windows and doors and let the fresh, spring air and sunshine inside.
This will eliminate much of the stale, stuffy air and give your home new life.

Step 2
Clean window screens and windows to allow more light to shine into your home. This
will give your home a more open, airy feel to it.

Step 3
Vacuum your upholstery and draperies to remove any dust, pollen, or dander that
may have accumulated over the long winter. This can exacerbate spring time
allergies.

Step 4
Thoroughly clean your ceiling fans to remove any accumulated dust and debris that
can circulate around the room when you turn it on.

Step 5
Clean carpeting with an organic rug cleaner to remove any residual pet odors and
dust mites that can cause allergic reactions and make your home smell less fresh.

Step 6
Dust thoroughly to further reduce airborne allergens that may have accumulated
over the winter.

Welcome to the Trademark Homes blog!

October 2nd, 2009

Welcome to our blog.  Keep an eye on this space for tips on how you can improve your home and how we can help take it to the next level.